Northern Cyprus - Coastline, Castles and Donkeys

We arrived on Saturday, rested Sunday and went to the local market on Monday. By Tuesday we were ready to explore. We took the local bus to Famagusta on the east coast below the panhandle of Karpaz. It is an old walled city with some interesting ruins. There is an old cathedral, which was converted into a mosque (Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque), something fairly unique. And whether you look at it as a church or a mosque, it's a lovely building. We had an expensive but superb mixed grill lunch followed by the best baklava in our travels so far. It was a  fun excursion and we were back by early afternoon and well in time for the marina’s social event - movie night at 8PM… bean bag chairs, free popcorn and “Fast and Furious 7” playing. The movie was heavy on testosterone and light on plot, but the bean bags and popcorn were great! :)

We rented a car mid-morning the following day and drove the northern coastal road to Girne (Kyrenia). We walked along the small quaint harbor front, had a bite in a local kebaperie, then headed from sea level up to the mountaintop and St. Hilarion Castle, a full on fairy tale castle, perched on top of vertical cliffs overlooking the coast and hillsides. This castle is said to have been the inspiration for the wicked witch's castle in Disney's Snow White animation. 

We made the most of our 24-hour car rental and headed to the east end of the Karpaz peninsula early the next day to see more of the countryside and to visit the wild donkeys that roam free there. They aren’t so much “wild” as they are “liberated”, since they were supposedly domestic critters before the Turkish invasion of Cyprus in 1974. When the Greek Cypriots living in the area had to flee to the south, many donkeys were abandoned and left to fend for themselves. They seem to have done an exemplary job of it. They were adorable and we made fast friends with several, who were happy to be bed, patted and photographed... but mainly to be fed.

with Equanimity and Joy

Jerusalem

It is a magical place, no doubt about it. The old city is such a unique mixture of architectures, that's referring to the people as well as the buildings. The fabric and texture of the city itself dazzles - from ancient stone stairs worn and smooth from thousands of years, to modern shops and cafes in every nook. With the religious significance rooted here for so many and with such a long history, the energy and importance of the city is clearly felt. For Jews, Temple Mount is the most sacred of places, location of the first and second temples. Yet it is also a most holy place for Muslims and Christians, each for their own reasons. It's multidimensional and multicultural, and no matter what your background or religion, it simply takes your breath away. As tourists for a only a short visit, we didn't feel any of the still-present political tensions, but when speaking with several locals from both the Muslim and Jewish quarters, it was clear that there are heated emotions and much to resolve.

view from our room

We stayed at the Jaffa Gate Hostel, inside the wall and across from the Tower of David, in a room with an unexpectedly beautiful view over the old city. And as crowded and bustling as it is during the day, full of tourists, pilgrims and locals, we were surprised to enjoy the quiet and peacefulness of the nights.



 

We started with a free walking tour, which gave us an overview of the four quarters (Armenian, Jewish, Muslim, and Christian) and the highlights not to miss: the Tower of David museum, the Western Wall and underground tunnel tour, view from the rooftops, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and Via Delarosa, to name a few. We visited all of these and they were all amazing, but possibly the best part of our trip to Jerusalem was simply walking around and absorbing the sights, sounds, and smells. On Thursday in the Jewish quarter a day when the Torah is read, we witnessed (and were almost carried away by) multiple Bar Mitzvah celebrations with clapping processions and horns, dancing and cheering.... unbridled joy and enthusiasm compared to the solemn prayer at the Western Wall just beyond. We had lunch at an outdoor shwarma bar selecting a table out of the way, and watched the pandemonium from a safe distance.

Tomb of Jesus in Church of the Holy Sepulche

Tower of David

The underground tunnel tour was excellent, allowing us a glimpse into the earlier eras and buildings of the city. We didn't realize how much exists underneath the streets and buildings of the Muslim quarter, along the north side of the Western Wall.

We mostly ate at local casual places outside of the old city, which we really enjoyed, but we also had a nice meal inside the Jaffa Gate at "Sam's", where the pitcher of minted lemonade (an Israeli specialty) was freshly made and absolutely delicious!

Church of Dormition and Tomb of King David

There is so much to see and do, we had to leave a lot for the next trip. We opted for the Tower of David museum over the Israel museum due to time and location. We wish we would have had a few more hours to spend there as it was exceptionally well-done, guiding you through the history from the first and second temple periods through to the British Mandate, with a variety of multimedia exhibits to bring everything to life.

Since there isn't any public transportation on Shabbat and we already had our return train tickets, we decided not to extend our stay another day or two. Sunday was Jerusalem day, celebrating the "reunification" (for some, and "occupation" for others) of Jerusalem in the aftermath of the 1967 six-day war. We didn't want to be there with the crowds and possible friction. Besides, we were invited to join new friends at their home for Shabbat dinner! Thank-you so much to Boaz & Sigal!!! We hope to return in the fall to see you again.


with Equanimity and Joy

Shalom Israel!

We didn't know whether or not we'd visit Israel until two days before we arrived. We are very glad that we were able to get a berth for a few weeks at the lovely and modern Herzliya (or Herzliyya, or Herzelia, or Herselia, depending on which sign you are looking at) Marina. What a treat to meet with Dan here after promising to visit by sail two years ago.

We rented a car after resting up a bit and took a five-day driving tour of much of Israel. We thought we'd save Jerusalem for a separate trip using public transport since you don't need (and probably don't even want) a car there.

We headed north to Caesarea and explored the ruins. This ancient city and harbor was built by Herod the Great in about 25-13 BC.  There are remains from many periods, including Crusader fortifications, a Roman theater and a hippodrome (for chariot racing and other forms of brutal entertainment... think Christians vs. lions). One of the most impressive parts of ancient Caesarea was its harbor. At the time it was built in the 1st century BC, it ranked as the largest artificial harbor built in the open sea.

We continued to Nazareth, where we spent the night at a hostel just above the old city market and directly on the “Jesus Trail” a 65km path that Jesus (may have) walked. Beautiful stone stairs took us down to the city center and narrow alleys twisting and turning this way and that, ensured we would get lost (even equipped with GPS!), all part of the Nazareth marketplace experience. We found our way to the Basilica, Church of the Annunciation, where Mary received word she would give birth to the son of God. We enjoyed being here and decided on a second night's stay largely due to the hostel's exceptionally yummy brekky. 

We drove out the following day to Tsippori (or Zippori, or...) just 10km away, and was amazed at the beautiful mosaics, especially the famous "Mona Lisa of Galilee".

Then on to Akko (Acre), north of Haifa, where we checked out the small marina and meandered through the open market and old city walls, before continuing up to the very north at the Lebanese border. We turned inland and followed scenic route 899, winding through hills and forests, through Safed, over to the Sea of Galilee and down the western side to Tiberius. Since it was Shabbat, most everything was closed. We just wanted a light dinner and managed to find a small mini-market on our street with a shwarma stand in front. We joined a couple already sitting at the only table and shared travel tips and experiences... good fun.

The following day we drove around the eastern side of the lake, up through the Golan Heights and further north towards the borders of Lebanon and Syria. There is quite a lot of agriculture, and we stopped at a scenic outlook near the Syrian border to have a stretch and a better view. We looked out at a UN facility and in the distance we could see smoke from rebel fighting, though not the IS we were told. 

Further along the way we spied Nimrod's Fortress, sitting high on the hill and decided to explore. It is located on the slopes of Mt. Hermon atop a ridge at an altitude of 815 meters. The fortress is magnificent, though much of it was destroyed in an earthquake in the 8^th century. Back to Tiberias for the night and then south for a visit to the new Vipassana center before continuing on to Bet She'an, another ancient city with beautiful Roman baths and a well-preserved theater. The amazing ancient architecture throughout Israel is dazzling and fascinating. 

With Equanimity and Joy,

Cairo, Egypt

We started off at the Citadel, the old fort surrounding the Mohamed Ali Mosque. Located on top of a mount on the east side of the city, the views of Cairo and the Giza pyramids in the distance are spectacular. We took a short tour and learned so much about the history of the fort and the mosque. There is another mosque in the Citadel called the "Green Mosque" because of its colored dome. While the Mohamed Ali Mosque is still in use for prayer, the Green Mosque is not.

From the Citadel, we caught a cab to the old Islamic Cairo. This area of narrow winding streets and bazaars was very interesting. We coEgyptian Museum.
uld have easily spent an entire day there, but we only had an hour or so to explore. A gentleman walked us through the old section (rather than staying on the more touristy street), near the textiles and through the spice bazaar, then into the perfume bazaar. Of course he eventually led us into his family's shop and had to show us some of his very best essential oils. In the end, we bought a small bottle of Frankincense and Murr, which  smelled lovely. Our guide showed us a nice place for our Egyptian lunch (which was excellent) and then we headed on to the

We could easily had stayed much longer at the museum, but it closes at 4PM so we decided to make the most of the time we had. We lucked out though, as they close the doors to newcomers at 4, but once in one could continue browsing for quite a lot longer. We left at about 5PM. The quantity and quality of the exhibits was awesome from huge statues to small beads and jewels. We were glad to have been to Luxor and the pyramids before coming to the museum so we were able to picture where the many statues and hieroglypics were originally located. The absolute highlight of the museum was the King Tutankamun tomb exhibit. They removed most of what was in the tomb and it is on display here. The amazing wealth of objects, from his coffins and golden mask, to jewelry, chariots, throne and more, was fantastic to see in person. The mask of King Tut is probably the most well-known and spectacular antiquity of all times due to how magnificent it is and how well it (and the other objects) were preserved. 

View over Cairo with pyramids in distance (photo center)

We packed a lot into our two and a half days in Cairo and would have enjoyed staying a bit longer if not for the incessant hawkers, each with their own spin on how to get us to visit their shops. That said, everyone was quite friendly and we were happy to have visited.

With Equanimity and Joy

Camels and Pyramids!

After returning from Luxor, we sailed out and worked our way up the Egyptian coast from Port Ghalib to Hurghada, then on to the Sinai Peninsula, waiting for a good weather window while anchored in El Tor in the shadow of Mount Sinai. We finally made our way up to Suez. From there, we traveled inland to Cairo to explore the city and visit the pyramids. Most people only visit the pyramids of Giza as they are closest to Cairo. Beyond Giza are the pyramids of Sakkara and Dashur. Further afield one finds many more... over 100 more in fact. Since we rented a car and driver for the day, we could set our own itinerary, started early and covered the three main locations, beginning with a tour of Giza by camel!!! Yes, despite the allergies (but prepared with antihistamines, tissues and a Ventolin inhaler) off we went on our camels, Sher on Casanova and Roger on Michael Jackson. The camel ride was as much fun as the pyramids... well, at least one of us (with the runny nose) thought so. :)

We rode our camels up to a lovely vantage point on the south side of the pyramids (non-camel riding tourists were on the other side) and then circled back to the pyramids. We climbed down inside the second pyramid, which was a small long shaft down, down, down, into the middle. Our last stop on the camel tour was the great sphinx, but unfortunately we couldn't get very close. Still, it is magnificent... these are true ancient architectural marvels and they leave you in awe.

Our next stop was to Dashur, the site of two important pyramids, the Red pyramid and the Bent pyramid. Both of these were commissioned by the ruler Snofru, father of Cheops (big pyramid of Giza). The Bent pyramid is more steeply inclined on the lower half, and less so on top. It is believed that the ruined pyramid of Sakkara collapsed because the angle was too steep, and so they modified this one since it was already under construction. Then the Red pyramid was built less than 1km away at a more gentle angle as insurance just in case the Bent pyramid collapsed, which happily it did not, as we climbed down into the middle of it. We were the only visitors to Dashur... no other tourists were there at the time. The two armed guards there decided to join us on our walk around the pyramid and turned into impromptu tour guides (all while lugging around their big guns), insisting on taking pictures of us at all scenic opportunities. They were nice and funny, and we enjoyed the tour.

at the Bent Pyramid with Red Pyramid in the background

Our final stop was Sakkara, home of the Stepped pyramid and the ruined pyramid. We paid our entrance fees but were unable to avoid the informal "tour" from the guide trapping at the entrance despite our best efforts to circumvent him. We were ushered around the site, viewing hieroglyphics on tombs, and led into chambers that were officially closed but unlocked for us with a bit of baksheesh (we tried to decline, but this was impossible).


It was a long day but a wonderful experience. We drove back to Cairo to rest up for the next day of sightseeing in the city!

with Equanimity and Joy,
(and Cassanova and Michael Jackson)

LUXOR, Egypt!!!!

LUXOR!!!! WOW!!!... an amazing experience. This trip absolutely ranks among the top highlights of our cruising journey thus far. Standing amid the ancient ruins, temples and tombs, paintings and hieroglyphics, is dazzling and breathtaking.

We should have had a tourist police permit to travel to Luxor and we should have taken a different (though longer) route, but we didn’t. Abrahem, our new Egyptian friend from Luxor with whom we shared a car, and the driver tried getting the permit for us. But they didn’t have our passport information and didn’t have enough time to complete the process. That cost us about a half hour at the first police checkpoint in El Quesir. After a few phone calls, some baksheesh paid and a lot of yelling, arm waving, and cigarette smoking, we got permission to continue on our way. As we neared Luxor, we took a detour through the back streets and behind the airport the long way to avoid the final police checkpoint. We eventually made it into town and to Abrahem’s home to meet his family and enjoy a nice meal.

Abrahem’s brother-in-law Mohamed, an Egyptologist and freelance tour guide, was to spend the next two days with us. He picked us up and we headed to the Luxor Temple. It was dusk and the lights were on at the temple. It was magical seeing the obelisk out front, the huge statues and columns, and the “Avenue of Sphinxes”, which leads north to Karnak Temple.

A mosque is built on top of a portion of the Luxor Temple, and we toured it as well. It was interesting to have this opportunity to peek inside a mosque. Mohamed told us so much about the history of the gods and the kings and queens. He told us about many of the words that had been changed from the ancient Egyptian language by the Greeks, leading to our current-day terminology, including the word Pharaoh for one of power or leader.

After Luxor Temple and the mosque, we checked into our hotel, the Jolly Vive on Kings Island, located on a small island in the Nile River. Breakfast was included and we enjoyed a vast array of delectable treats on the terrace overlooking the Nile… you simply cannot beat that! J

The next morning, we started out early and spent the entire day at the tombs and temples of the necropolis on the west bank of the Nile. Our first stop was to the Valley of the Kings, where the pharaohs are buried. In ancient times there were also female pharaohs who ruled in Egypt. The carvings and the paintings in these tombs are both elaborate and exquisite. Because the tombs are located in such a dry climate and dug deeply into the mountainsides, the paint is intact to a large degree. The walls and ceilings are covered in pictures and hieroglyphics telling of the battles and life of the times. The pharaohs actually had their tombs constructed during their lifetimes. Each tomb consists of an entrance hall, several chambers and then the final chamber where the mummified body was placed in sarcophagi.  The sarcophagus was an outer stone structure into which was placed several inner caskets. The tomb contained riches and tools for the deceased to travel through the underworlds (there were two of them – good and evil). The locations of the tombs were chosen to be placed under pyramid-shaped rock formations in Thebes (ancient Egyptian name for Luxor), so they didn’t have to build the pyramids themselves, like they did in Giza.

After the Valley of the Kings, we went to Al-Deir Al-Bahari Temple, the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut. It was designed and implemented by Senenmut, royal architect of Hatshepsut, believed to be her lover. Hatshepsut’s son came to power when he was young but Hatshepsut sent him off and she took the crown herself. When she eventually died and her son became king, he unfortunately had the images of Hatshepsut scratched out from the walls here in revenge. This temple is where they performed the process of mummification, a 70-day process before the final burial.

Our next stop was to R’Mose, or temple of Ramose, in Sheikh abd Al-Querna, or the Valley of the Nobles. The carving here is incredible. So delicate with perfectly carved ears and thumbs, intricately carved jewelry and wigs, styled differently for each individual. There were the most beautifully carved hieroglyphics… perfect little owls, horses and faces. Just beautiful! Following the Valley of the Nobles, we visited Deir al-Madina, which is the place the workers had lived and where they were buried. The tombs in the Valley of the Kings, Queens and Nobles were all built and decorated by workers who were paid… not by slaves. Although the two tombs we visited were not nearly as large or as elaborately decorated as those of nobility, they were lovely and impressive none-the-less.

We continued on to the Valley of the Queens and visited the tombs of one of the wives of King Ramses II, Queen Titi and prince Amonherkhepshef. Princes under the age of 13 were buried in the Valley of the Queens.

Our last stop on the west bank was to Habu Temple. This temple was built by Ramses III at the time where the Egyptian empire was already in decline. King Ramses III was able-bodied and proficient in hunting. Many of the carvings at this temple depicted him on his chariot hunting. 

The next morning, we started off in a horse carriage to visit the local markets. We weren’t sure we wanted to do this, both because it seemed very touristy and because of Sher’s allergy to horses, but Mohamed assured us that this was the best way to travel into the markets. Unfortunately, we were right on both accounts… touristy and a seriously runny nose. We walked around, then decided on a car for further transportation to the live animal market (we resisted the temptation to buy a goat) and then the Luxor Museum, which was splendid. We spent hours gazing at statues and learning more about early Egyptian history. There were also two mummies in residence at the museum, one of which was thought to be King Ramses I.

Our final destination was Karnak Temple. We spent hours there and we were dazzled by the enormity and detail of the columns, obelisks, and the carved and painted walls of the temples housed within the complex. We learned why all offerings to the temple were allowed except humans (somewhat obvious) and fish, a complex story of love, hate, infidelity, deception, revenge and forgiveness. Hmmm, we thought it was because of the fishy smell. 

We headed back to Port Ghalib the following morning and enjoyed a shorter and less controversial ride, with official papers, but still somewhat hidden in the back of the van (with curtains drawn) to prevent any potential issues at checkpoints.

An excellent trip regardless of the police check-points, just the drive through the mountains was fascinating. We even stopped at an old well dug in the mountain pass so the pharaoh’s could take a bath while on the trip to the Red Sea. This path is still adorned with old stone fire boxes that lit the way through the mountains so they could travel at night. We highly recommend this journey from either Port Ghalib or Hurghada or however you can get to Luxor (Thebes). The only reasonable way to get there is to hire a car, driver and a guide, but it’s well worth it and very reasonably priced. You’ll learn so much more with a good guide then you ever will on your own. We’d recommend Mohamed Zaki in a heartbeat, +20 10 0249 6991, wasetmzaki@yahoo.com, a very lovely soul. He’ll look after you very well.

With Equanimity and Joy

 

Port Suakin, Sudan

Wow, suddenly we were in Sudan and set foot for the first time on the African continent! This was definitely a different world. As we entered the harbor, we were greeted with smiles and waves from people along the shore. We loved how friendly the people are here. We motored past amazing ruins alongside modern minarets. We sat at anchor in this lovely little harbor with the ruins of Suakin Island to one side and the town hidden somewhat inland on the other. Mohammed, our agent, is a tall gentleman in white robes, a lovely warm smile and deep pleasant voice. He welcomed us with open arms as he climbed aboard the boat to check us into his country.

Mohammed arranged a day tour for us and we visited the Suakin Tourist village, which was a museum of folklore. We were delighted to see many pictures of what Port Suakin looked like in its heyday, before the main commercial port was moved to Port Sudan in the early 1900's. We went to the local veggie market, a very small grocery and then finally to the town bakery, which produced only one item... divine little fluffy pita/rolls. We bought a bag full of them and each ate one (hot off the press) there and then.

Unfortunately, we didn't have time to just walk around town because we were all in a minivan. Later that day, we took a walking tour of Suakin Island and viewed the ruins. There are some small hopeful signs of renovations, including plans for a hotel.

We really enjoyed our time in Sudan! We're off to Egypt next, as soon as we have a good weather window (meaning no strong winds from the north to beat into).

With Equanimity and Joy