After returning from Luxor, we sailed out and worked our way up the Egyptian coast from Port Ghalib to Hurghada, then on to the Sinai Peninsula, waiting for a good weather window while anchored in El Tor in the shadow of Mount Sinai. We finally made our way up to Suez. From there, we traveled inland to Cairo to explore the city and visit the pyramids. Most people only visit the pyramids of Giza as they are closest to Cairo. Beyond Giza are the pyramids of Sakkara and Dashur. Further afield one finds many more... over 100 more in fact. Since we rented a car and driver for the day, we could set our own itinerary, started early and covered the three main locations, beginning with a tour of Giza by camel!!! Yes, despite the allergies (but prepared with antihistamines, tissues and a Ventolin inhaler) off we went on our camels, Sher on Casanova and Roger on Michael Jackson. The camel ride was as much fun as the pyramids... well, at least one of us (with the runny nose) thought so. :)
We rode our camels up to a lovely vantage point on the south side of the pyramids (non-camel riding tourists were on the other side) and then circled back to the pyramids. We climbed down inside the second pyramid, which was a small long shaft down, down, down, into the middle. Our last stop on the camel tour was the great sphinx, but unfortunately we couldn't get very close. Still, it is magnificent... these are true ancient architectural marvels and they leave you in awe.
Our next stop was to Dashur, the site of two important pyramids, the Red pyramid and the Bent pyramid. Both of these were commissioned by the ruler Snofru, father of Cheops (big pyramid of Giza). The Bent pyramid is more steeply inclined on the lower half, and less so on top. It is believed that the ruined pyramid of Sakkara collapsed because the angle was too steep, and so they modified this one since it was already under construction. Then the Red pyramid was built less than 1km away at a more gentle angle as insurance just in case the Bent pyramid collapsed, which happily it did not, as we climbed down into the middle of it. We were the only visitors to Dashur... no other tourists were there at the time. The two armed guards there decided to join us on our walk around the pyramid and turned into impromptu tour guides (all while lugging around their big guns), insisting on taking pictures of us at all scenic opportunities. They were nice and funny, and we enjoyed the tour.
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| at the Bent Pyramid with Red Pyramid in the background |
Our final stop was Sakkara, home of the Stepped pyramid and the ruined pyramid. We paid our entrance fees but were unable to avoid the informal "tour" from the guide trapping at the entrance despite our best efforts to circumvent him. We were ushered around the site, viewing hieroglyphics on tombs, and led into chambers that were officially closed but unlocked for us with a bit of baksheesh (we tried to decline, but this was impossible).
It was a long day but a wonderful experience. We drove back to Cairo to rest up for the next day of sightseeing in the city!
with Equanimity and Joy,
(and Cassanova and Michael Jackson)
