Saturday 25 March 2017

Back into the US of A

We weren't planning to stop in the Virgin Islands, but Roger's US passport was going to expire before we could reach Florida, so we had to make a stop in Virgin Islands. It was an overnighter out of St. Kitts putting us over the Saba bank, a shoal large area where the deep sea rises to within 20 feet of the surface, our first experience of what lay ahead working our way up through the Bahamas. But the sea was bountiful as we caught a nice Wahoo for dinner.

We started the passport ordeal as soon as we could, choosing the expensive expedited delivery option, and then it was a wait and see what happens deal. It was fairly windy so we stayed tucked in behind the headland close to the town of Christiansted for easy access to the town and island. I did need a haircut for the for the passport photo and so found a barber shop next to the post office. They mostly cut black peoples hair with electric clippers, so that was a new experience. :)




Waiting, waiting, waiting, like the little circular icon on a computer going around and around. We did run into a boat (not literally of course) I had sailed with in Indonesia, 'Yolo', which was fun to catch up with Karen and Jason.

We did manager to get out to Buck Island for a few days but had to apply for a permit first where the park service had to do a background check first! (like did we have a record for knocking off turtles or what...), which took a week. It was lovely clear waters but really shoal, like EQ's depth gauge showed 4' where we draw 6' (need to get that calibrated I reckon). Diving under the boat showed about 6" under the keel, but sandy just next to the reef. One day was a local holiday so all the crazy speed (and I mean high speed and loud) boats came out of nowhere. This brought out the park service, local police and coast guard boats to keep an eye on the festivities. We where glad to see them head back home with there blaringly loud music and roaring engines returning our peaceful anchorage to the lovely sound of the waves and light breezes. Pew...

And then comes an email from the passport office saying it was back. So, we scrambled back as fast as we could so we could get on our way after two weeks of sitting around. St. Croix was lovely and we did manage to borrow a car for a bit of a tour around the island. But it was time to move on having cleared into the US complete with a cruising permit for the next year.

That's the news from EQ, where the winds are clam, the seas fair and the crew happy to be going to the Spanish Virgins...

With Equanimity and Joy

Sunday 12 March 2017

The Leeward Islands continued



From Pointe a Pitre we headed for the Iles des Saintes, and found a free mooring tucked around the corner from town next to the Pain de Sucre, which turned out to be a really nice snorkeling spot. It was so pretty, in fact, that we sat there for four nights. The town was quaint and we walked up the hill to view Napoleon Fort. The rested feeling returned, we set off for Deshaises, 30 miles up on the northwest coast of Guadeloupe. Along the way, we pulled into the Cousteau Marine Park at Pigeon Point where we grabbed the only free mooring, threw on our suits and masks, and jumped in for a fantastic one hour snorkel around the bowl before casting off and carrying on up the coast to Deshaises.

There was a nice harbor there, full of anchored boats, and a quiet town where went in for a pizza dinner and met a couple from Oregon who were just beginning their cruising life. We met up with them the next morning for a few hours hike, boulder hopping up the river bed. 

And then, time to go to Antigua!! Though we'd be early for Kim's daughter's visit, we figured we could check out the island and scope out where to go. Nikki and her boyfriend, Chris, would only be with us for three days as well and there were so many pretty spots to see.

We started with Falmouth Harbor, filled with over the top super yachts, and a visit to the historic Nelson Dockyard, including a walk up the goat trail to the forts overlooking the entrance to English Harbor. Next we had an, as always, interesting bus ride to St John's for provisions, as well as the long suffering search for an internet SIM card. After that success, we moved EQ around to Nonsuch Bay and sat behind the reefs for a couple of nights of peace and quiet. Continuing on we moved to the west side and stopped in Deep Bay where we found our new Danish friends on Amanda and had a lovely dinner onboard.

Moving on, we crossed the top of the island and
down into Parham Harbor where we picked up Nikki and Chris. The next morning cleared nicely and we went out to Great Bird Island - a beautiful spot! There was a free mooring for us and we went ashore to hike up the hill and watch the red billed tropic birds swooping on the bluffs to reach their nests. The snorkeling was good as well. The next day we sailed back through the Boon Channel and in to Jolly Harbour for the last night of their visit,  taking a slip in the marina and eating out for dinner at the Crow's Nest. We still had the morning to play and so went down to the beach for toes in the sand and a swim, before the sad goodbyes had to be said.


The weather dictated an early start for the 45 mile run to Nevis/St Kitts so we staged ourselves in the outer harbor. While we were at the fuel dock, our friends Nancy and Ron on Mandala (first met in Cape Verde) pulled in! They are  joined us on EQ for dinner where we talked about fishing luck (they are both retired fishermen). So that night Roger put a new lure on the fishing pole, hoping for better results, and as soon as we were crossing the Saba bank we snagged a mahi-mahi (so beautiful we felt really bad about killing it but at the same time grateful for the many meals put in the freezer).



It was blowing hard when we got to Nevis so we picked up a mooring in Charlestown and went ashore for check in. While ashore we checked out the Hamilton museum and did a walk about the historic area downtown. Then we moved over to better moorings and hunkered down for a four day blow with rain squalls (next to another volcano...). Once that settled down (or so we thought) we went to St Kitts - finally finding anchorage in White House Bay, and then moving into the marina in Port Zante, Basseterre the next morning so we could explore the island. Shared a taxi tour with a Canadian couple - out to Brimstone Hill fort and the Romney sugar plantation. Next stop - St Croix!


That's the news from EQ where the winds are all over the place, the seas provide bounty and the crew is content.

With Equanimity and Joy....