Jerusalem

It is a magical place, no doubt about it. The old city is such a unique mixture of architectures, that's referring to the people as well as the buildings. The fabric and texture of the city itself dazzles - from ancient stone stairs worn and smooth from thousands of years, to modern shops and cafes in every nook. With the religious significance rooted here for so many and with such a long history, the energy and importance of the city is clearly felt. For Jews, Temple Mount is the most sacred of places, location of the first and second temples. Yet it is also a most holy place for Muslims and Christians, each for their own reasons. It's multidimensional and multicultural, and no matter what your background or religion, it simply takes your breath away. As tourists for a only a short visit, we didn't feel any of the still-present political tensions, but when speaking with several locals from both the Muslim and Jewish quarters, it was clear that there are heated emotions and much to resolve.

view from our room

We stayed at the Jaffa Gate Hostel, inside the wall and across from the Tower of David, in a room with an unexpectedly beautiful view over the old city. And as crowded and bustling as it is during the day, full of tourists, pilgrims and locals, we were surprised to enjoy the quiet and peacefulness of the nights.



 

We started with a free walking tour, which gave us an overview of the four quarters (Armenian, Jewish, Muslim, and Christian) and the highlights not to miss: the Tower of David museum, the Western Wall and underground tunnel tour, view from the rooftops, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and Via Delarosa, to name a few. We visited all of these and they were all amazing, but possibly the best part of our trip to Jerusalem was simply walking around and absorbing the sights, sounds, and smells. On Thursday in the Jewish quarter a day when the Torah is read, we witnessed (and were almost carried away by) multiple Bar Mitzvah celebrations with clapping processions and horns, dancing and cheering.... unbridled joy and enthusiasm compared to the solemn prayer at the Western Wall just beyond. We had lunch at an outdoor shwarma bar selecting a table out of the way, and watched the pandemonium from a safe distance.

Tomb of Jesus in Church of the Holy Sepulche

Tower of David

The underground tunnel tour was excellent, allowing us a glimpse into the earlier eras and buildings of the city. We didn't realize how much exists underneath the streets and buildings of the Muslim quarter, along the north side of the Western Wall.

We mostly ate at local casual places outside of the old city, which we really enjoyed, but we also had a nice meal inside the Jaffa Gate at "Sam's", where the pitcher of minted lemonade (an Israeli specialty) was freshly made and absolutely delicious!

Church of Dormition and Tomb of King David

There is so much to see and do, we had to leave a lot for the next trip. We opted for the Tower of David museum over the Israel museum due to time and location. We wish we would have had a few more hours to spend there as it was exceptionally well-done, guiding you through the history from the first and second temple periods through to the British Mandate, with a variety of multimedia exhibits to bring everything to life.

Since there isn't any public transportation on Shabbat and we already had our return train tickets, we decided not to extend our stay another day or two. Sunday was Jerusalem day, celebrating the "reunification" (for some, and "occupation" for others) of Jerusalem in the aftermath of the 1967 six-day war. We didn't want to be there with the crowds and possible friction. Besides, we were invited to join new friends at their home for Shabbat dinner! Thank-you so much to Boaz & Sigal!!! We hope to return in the fall to see you again.


with Equanimity and Joy