Glorious Greece!: Part I - A Stay in Syros

We checked into Greece two weeks ago at Kos, but it wasn't until we arrived at our fifth island/stop in Syros that we both had the feeling we had arrived to our Greek destination spot. Admittedly, we didn't spend much time at the first several places - Kalimnos, Patmos, and Naxos - as we were making tracks to get across the Aegean and out of the Meltemi winds as quickly as possible. We didn't even get off the boat in Kalimnos or Patmos except for a swim. We planned to sail the Adriatic all the way up to Venice before having to turn back down to lower latitudes and then Turkey by mid Oct, so needed to move quickly on the way up.

However, when we arrived in Syros, we found an extremely nice (read: strong holding and well situated) mooring buoy available and Greek neighbors (who have sailed these waters for over 35 years) who told us that this was one of the best spots around all of Greece and they visit here often. They also told us that in August the Ionian Islands, Croatia and Italy were even more crowded (everyone in Europe goes to Italy in August!) and expensive than the Aegean islands, and recommended we not rush to go there this season. In fact, he suggested not to rush out of Greece and the Med period. We liked it so much on our mooring in front of the Finikas basin that we decided we wanted to follow Dino's advice and stay. We've traveled over 6000 miles since the beginning of the year and we felt that taking a break in a lovely spot like this was the thing to do. We may (and likely will) change our minds a dozen times again, but for now, we're loving Syros and are planning to stay here for a spell. At some point we'll meander to a few other nice recommended places on our way back to Finike, Turkey... unless we decide to stay in Greece, or...?

Ermoupolis (or Hermoupolis) is the main town on Syros and the capital of the Cyclades Islands, located right in the middle of the Aegean and just west of Mykonos, the more popular of this island group. A short bus ride away from Finikas where we're calling home for now, Ermoupolis is a lovely town and because there isn't an airport on the island it feels real and isn't too touristy. Only those traveling by ferry or on their own boats make it here so it doesn't have the vibe you get from big charter tourism on other islands. The town has lovely Venetian architecture and alleyways, lots of steps up the hill to the famous Greek Orthodox Church of Resurrection, and pleasant little outdoor cafes to sit in the shade, relaxing and people watching. 

We happened upon one of these on our first excursion into Ermoupolis, the Belle Epoque "cafe and more" is just off the main square in front of the Town Hall. Owner Eric, half French and half Greek, prepared a delightful brunch of eggs, warm rolls and a croissant with Greek coffee (my first) and custom brewed ginger tea. Everything he served was created from local ingredients and with loving care. The water in Syros is considered the best in the Cyclades and it makes everything taste better here... and we believe that. And speaking of water... the waters surrounding Syros island are crystal clear turquoise and cobalt blue. Every afternoon we jump off the boat and into the refreshing seas to cool off then take a sunny/breezy back-deck shower... heavenly!

The small west-coast town of Finikas is perfect for us. It's pretty quiet as the beach resorts are further to the south. Despite that, there are several excellent tavernas (restaurants) with terraces and views of the bay. One of these made a great pizza for us one evening and another prepared possibly the best-ever grilled calamari. It's easy when deep fried, but when grilled tender calamari requires more skill. There's also a little supermarket that not only has most of the things we need, but also has low-fat goat milk (a favorite) and sure sign we're in the right place.

So here we are on our dream cruise in Greece, snug and smitten and staying in Syros.

With Equanimity and Joy,

The Turquoise Coast

Once across the Gulf of Antalya we entered into what's known as the "Turquoise Coast", stretching along the Med with the most beautiful cobalt blue and turquoise waters. We made an unplanned stop at the Finike Marina, deciding to visit at the last moment to see the ancient rock tombs and ruins at Demre and Ayakanda. We are very glad we spent a few days there as this is where we'll likely come back to for the coming winter months. Finike itself is an agricultural center and a real working Turkish town, rather than a tourist resort destination, which we really like. The marina and staff are lovely, and the market in town on Saturday is the best so far!

From Finike we sailed towards Kekova Roads and the lovely hamlet of Kalekoy. The castle ruins perched atop the hill had stunning views and looked out across the bay to the sunken city and beyond. The top of the hill was also covered with sarcophagi.









Continuing west, we spent a few days in a bay near Kas (pronounced "cash"). A lovely gullet was anchored next to us and the captain had a nifty little flying drone which took our picture as it whizzed by. Captain Ergun sent us these photos. He speaks excellent English and if you are planning a trip to the area and would like to spend a few days along the coast on a boat (unless you have your own, of course), contact him on his website at: www.boattripturkey.com.

Then on we went to Fethiye, Gocek and Skopea Limani, all located in a large bay. This is one of the prime cruising grounds in Turkey and the place was swamped with private yachts, charter boats, gullets (Turkish overnight boats) and day-tripper boats... some of which were nothing more than big party boats with pink passengers reddened by the excess of sun and/or drink. With the area so populated, several entrepreneurial souls met the needs and desires of the cruisers anchored out with an ice cream speed boat and a market boat (floating supermarket), both of which we availed ourselves of during our week stay among the islands.

On to Marmaris Bay we went in order to buy boat bits and to take care of some repairs and maintenance for the boat and for us too! We visited the Marmaris Devlet Hospital (gov't/state hospital) for some check-ups, which was excellent. Thanks to Suzanne, who acted as translator and scheduled appointments for us. We were well taken care of. Then, off to see Ata at Aladag Optik with an updated prescription for stronger reading glasses. We covered a lot in just a few days and then were off to continue west and north along the beautiful coast of Turkey before sailing into Greece. We really, really like it here and are glad we'll be back in the fall. Well, unless we change our minds... which of course never happens. :)

with Equanimity and Joy

Cappadocia: Fairy Chimneys and Whirling Dirrvishes!

We found a 2-night/3-day bus tour from Alanya to Cappadocia, one of the top "must visit" sights in Turkey, according to Lonely Planet. Despite our short time here in Turkey and not having seen much yet, we would have to agree. This place is magical. The "Fairy Chimneys" are natural formations created when softer limestone was eroded away leaving tall pillars with harder stone boulders sitting atop them. It's beautiful to see these scattered all over the landscape. With the limestone as soft as it is, earlier civilizations carved out churches and homes in the sides of the cliffs, and dug out entire underground cities for protection against invaders.

On the way to Cappadocia we stopped in Konya at the Mevlana Dervish Museum. Mevlana was a
13th century mystic and the originator of the Dervishes, a spiritual order who believed that all things in this universe are meant to rotate, including us. They developed a 6-part ceremony called "Sema" in which they rotate clockwise with their hands outstretched; right palm facing up to be open to receive gifts from God; left hand facing down to earth to represent loss. They begin with their arms closed and then they open up like blossoms as they begin their whirling motion. We were able to see this ceremony performed in an underground cave theater in Cappadocia that evening. It was as hypnotizing as it was lovely. There were three musicians (drums, flute and harpsichord, though they have different names for them) and the music was beautiful.


The second day in Cappadocia was full of panoramic views, churches and homes carved into the stone, and a few local craft/shopping stops... as it became apparent that the very low cost of the tour was due to subsidies from these shops. We narrowly escaped purchasing what we thought was a "sultanite" (color changing) gemstone ring. After deciding to do some research online we found out that it was not the real stone at all, but rather glass impregnated with minerals to emulate the color change. The real stone, found locally only in the Taurus mountains of Turkey, would have been much costlier and just about all of it is exported. But even with the ceramics, gemstones and carpet stops, the tour was worthwhile for the price. The hotel was much better than expected. It was entirely built from stone blocks. Our room had a curved stone ceiling, as did the bathroom. Plus the bed was very comfy, something we especially appreciate after the rock-hard beds of Thailand!

The third day of the tour was basically the return trip to Alanya. It would have been nice if we had come back a different way to see more, but we really enjoyed this "introductory tour". We want to go back on our own and see some of the things we missed!

With Equanimity and Joy

Alanya... We're in Turkey!!!

We arrived in Turkey on June 1st, sailing along the east coast of the Antalya Gulf, past the Alanya castle and fortress, then into the small new marina. It took a bit of time to get checked in, even with an agent, but we're so glad to be here!!! Roger has dreamed of sailing the Turquoise Coast of Turkey for at least 20 years and we are realizing that dream. Alanya itself surprised us, as we had expected a sleepy little village rather than the built-up full-on resort town we found. It's an easy place to get around though, with local buses every 10-15 minutes out in front of the marina. On Tuesdays and Fridays the marina sponsors a shuttle to the fresh produce markets in town. This was our first experience with the AMAZING markets and produce of Turkey. The sights, smells, and tastes were a feast for the senses. Of course we bought way too much and had to store our 1/4 watermelon in our neighbor's 'fridge. I even found fresh goat milk and lots of delicious cheese.

We arrived on a Monday, went to the market on Tuesday and then we took the bus into town on Wednesday and walked up a few km to the Alanya Castle and fortress, which we had seen from the seaside. The views were amazing, but the ruins were... well... ruined. There wasn't too much preserved, but it was good exercise and we enjoyed the walk up and back. That evening, we joined our neighbors, who have lived in Alanya for 13 years and knew the great places to go, for dinner in town at a lovely garden restaurant. They've been friends with the couple who own the "Old House" for years. There is no menu at their restaurant; you get an assortment of meze dishes and choose between two main courses. Everything was delightful and clearly prepared with love and inspiration. Even the house wine was excellent and complemented the food perfectly.

We spent Thursday planning a short trip inland to Cappadocia by bus, while we're as far east as we'll be along the coast. Stay tuned for separate post and pics!

With Equanimity and Joy

Northern Cyprus - Coastline, Castles and Donkeys

We arrived on Saturday, rested Sunday and went to the local market on Monday. By Tuesday we were ready to explore. We took the local bus to Famagusta on the east coast below the panhandle of Karpaz. It is an old walled city with some interesting ruins. There is an old cathedral, which was converted into a mosque (Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque), something fairly unique. And whether you look at it as a church or a mosque, it's a lovely building. We had an expensive but superb mixed grill lunch followed by the best baklava in our travels so far. It was a  fun excursion and we were back by early afternoon and well in time for the marina’s social event - movie night at 8PM… bean bag chairs, free popcorn and “Fast and Furious 7” playing. The movie was heavy on testosterone and light on plot, but the bean bags and popcorn were great! :)

We rented a car mid-morning the following day and drove the northern coastal road to Girne (Kyrenia). We walked along the small quaint harbor front, had a bite in a local kebaperie, then headed from sea level up to the mountaintop and St. Hilarion Castle, a full on fairy tale castle, perched on top of vertical cliffs overlooking the coast and hillsides. This castle is said to have been the inspiration for the wicked witch's castle in Disney's Snow White animation. 

We made the most of our 24-hour car rental and headed to the east end of the Karpaz peninsula early the next day to see more of the countryside and to visit the wild donkeys that roam free there. They aren’t so much “wild” as they are “liberated”, since they were supposedly domestic critters before the Turkish invasion of Cyprus in 1974. When the Greek Cypriots living in the area had to flee to the south, many donkeys were abandoned and left to fend for themselves. They seem to have done an exemplary job of it. They were adorable and we made fast friends with several, who were happy to be bed, patted and photographed... but mainly to be fed.

with Equanimity and Joy

Jerusalem

It is a magical place, no doubt about it. The old city is such a unique mixture of architectures, that's referring to the people as well as the buildings. The fabric and texture of the city itself dazzles - from ancient stone stairs worn and smooth from thousands of years, to modern shops and cafes in every nook. With the religious significance rooted here for so many and with such a long history, the energy and importance of the city is clearly felt. For Jews, Temple Mount is the most sacred of places, location of the first and second temples. Yet it is also a most holy place for Muslims and Christians, each for their own reasons. It's multidimensional and multicultural, and no matter what your background or religion, it simply takes your breath away. As tourists for a only a short visit, we didn't feel any of the still-present political tensions, but when speaking with several locals from both the Muslim and Jewish quarters, it was clear that there are heated emotions and much to resolve.

view from our room

We stayed at the Jaffa Gate Hostel, inside the wall and across from the Tower of David, in a room with an unexpectedly beautiful view over the old city. And as crowded and bustling as it is during the day, full of tourists, pilgrims and locals, we were surprised to enjoy the quiet and peacefulness of the nights.



 

We started with a free walking tour, which gave us an overview of the four quarters (Armenian, Jewish, Muslim, and Christian) and the highlights not to miss: the Tower of David museum, the Western Wall and underground tunnel tour, view from the rooftops, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and Via Delarosa, to name a few. We visited all of these and they were all amazing, but possibly the best part of our trip to Jerusalem was simply walking around and absorbing the sights, sounds, and smells. On Thursday in the Jewish quarter a day when the Torah is read, we witnessed (and were almost carried away by) multiple Bar Mitzvah celebrations with clapping processions and horns, dancing and cheering.... unbridled joy and enthusiasm compared to the solemn prayer at the Western Wall just beyond. We had lunch at an outdoor shwarma bar selecting a table out of the way, and watched the pandemonium from a safe distance.

Tomb of Jesus in Church of the Holy Sepulche

Tower of David

The underground tunnel tour was excellent, allowing us a glimpse into the earlier eras and buildings of the city. We didn't realize how much exists underneath the streets and buildings of the Muslim quarter, along the north side of the Western Wall.

We mostly ate at local casual places outside of the old city, which we really enjoyed, but we also had a nice meal inside the Jaffa Gate at "Sam's", where the pitcher of minted lemonade (an Israeli specialty) was freshly made and absolutely delicious!

Church of Dormition and Tomb of King David

There is so much to see and do, we had to leave a lot for the next trip. We opted for the Tower of David museum over the Israel museum due to time and location. We wish we would have had a few more hours to spend there as it was exceptionally well-done, guiding you through the history from the first and second temple periods through to the British Mandate, with a variety of multimedia exhibits to bring everything to life.

Since there isn't any public transportation on Shabbat and we already had our return train tickets, we decided not to extend our stay another day or two. Sunday was Jerusalem day, celebrating the "reunification" (for some, and "occupation" for others) of Jerusalem in the aftermath of the 1967 six-day war. We didn't want to be there with the crowds and possible friction. Besides, we were invited to join new friends at their home for Shabbat dinner! Thank-you so much to Boaz & Sigal!!! We hope to return in the fall to see you again.


with Equanimity and Joy

Shalom Israel!

We didn't know whether or not we'd visit Israel until two days before we arrived. We are very glad that we were able to get a berth for a few weeks at the lovely and modern Herzliya (or Herzliyya, or Herzelia, or Herselia, depending on which sign you are looking at) Marina. What a treat to meet with Dan here after promising to visit by sail two years ago.

We rented a car after resting up a bit and took a five-day driving tour of much of Israel. We thought we'd save Jerusalem for a separate trip using public transport since you don't need (and probably don't even want) a car there.

We headed north to Caesarea and explored the ruins. This ancient city and harbor was built by Herod the Great in about 25-13 BC.  There are remains from many periods, including Crusader fortifications, a Roman theater and a hippodrome (for chariot racing and other forms of brutal entertainment... think Christians vs. lions). One of the most impressive parts of ancient Caesarea was its harbor. At the time it was built in the 1st century BC, it ranked as the largest artificial harbor built in the open sea.

We continued to Nazareth, where we spent the night at a hostel just above the old city market and directly on the “Jesus Trail” a 65km path that Jesus (may have) walked. Beautiful stone stairs took us down to the city center and narrow alleys twisting and turning this way and that, ensured we would get lost (even equipped with GPS!), all part of the Nazareth marketplace experience. We found our way to the Basilica, Church of the Annunciation, where Mary received word she would give birth to the son of God. We enjoyed being here and decided on a second night's stay largely due to the hostel's exceptionally yummy brekky. 

We drove out the following day to Tsippori (or Zippori, or...) just 10km away, and was amazed at the beautiful mosaics, especially the famous "Mona Lisa of Galilee".

Then on to Akko (Acre), north of Haifa, where we checked out the small marina and meandered through the open market and old city walls, before continuing up to the very north at the Lebanese border. We turned inland and followed scenic route 899, winding through hills and forests, through Safed, over to the Sea of Galilee and down the western side to Tiberius. Since it was Shabbat, most everything was closed. We just wanted a light dinner and managed to find a small mini-market on our street with a shwarma stand in front. We joined a couple already sitting at the only table and shared travel tips and experiences... good fun.

The following day we drove around the eastern side of the lake, up through the Golan Heights and further north towards the borders of Lebanon and Syria. There is quite a lot of agriculture, and we stopped at a scenic outlook near the Syrian border to have a stretch and a better view. We looked out at a UN facility and in the distance we could see smoke from rebel fighting, though not the IS we were told. 

Further along the way we spied Nimrod's Fortress, sitting high on the hill and decided to explore. It is located on the slopes of Mt. Hermon atop a ridge at an altitude of 815 meters. The fortress is magnificent, though much of it was destroyed in an earthquake in the 8^th century. Back to Tiberias for the night and then south for a visit to the new Vipassana center before continuing on to Bet She'an, another ancient city with beautiful Roman baths and a well-preserved theater. The amazing ancient architecture throughout Israel is dazzling and fascinating. 

With Equanimity and Joy,