So fine, we set out to catch the 9:00am bus a bit early to
make sure we find it with lunch and a rain-jacket in hand. It’s a bit rainy,
but warm and we are looking forward to our first adventure inland. So, the bus
heads out and the driver assures us he’ll drop us at “the waterfall”. We figure
if the driver forgets, then we’ll go see Labasa for the day for half the bus
fare, you know, plan B. Cool, so we settle in for the long slooooow crawl up
the mountain road in this big old bus packed full of people headed across the
mountains to the “big city” (pop. 24,000) of Labasa. Savusavu is on the south
side of the island which is the wet rainy side and Labasa is on the drier north
side.About an hour later after passing through several villages, making many stops, the bus stops for us at the very top of the mountains (the pass) and the driver points to the ridge and says “over there”. So, off we go, with many thanks, but we notice some friendly folks wondering what we are doing here, so we ask if “the waterfall” is over there. They, being the most friendly people on the planet, ask “well, which waterfall do you want to see, the little one, the middle one or the big one, and of course none of these are in the Waisali Rainforest Reserve, and the one “over there” isn’t but a trickle. Huuummm. Well, that’s easy, the big one of course. Oh, well for that one you have to go to the next village and then hike a few kilometres into the jungle. Ok, fine we have legs so we can walk to the next village and then into the jungle, which they said oh no, it’s much too far (10 km), so this woman insisted on taking us down there.
So, she gets her car, we pile in and she takes us to the next village and beyond to show us the little waterfall along the road where some locals get there drinking water and bath and then takes us back to the village, Lamolamo. Along the way, she points out the waterfall we chose to go see on the far wall of the valley. A spectacular valley it was too, breathtaking for sure. When stopping in the village, everyone came out to greet us and one young girl insisted on guiding us across the valley. So, cool, we set forth down the track into the deep green jungle, the clouds and rain of the southern side stopping at the mountain ridge just beyond the valley. It was muddy from the last few days of rain, but today was beautiful.
Now, since I’m in jandals (flip-flops) expecting a leisurely stroll on a track made for tourists, quickly wish I had come more prepared for an expedition. The jandals were definitely not going very far in this very sticky mud. So off they come and I’m going on into the jungle in bare feet, gooey mud oozing up through the toes. But I’m happy to be here and our guide, Eleanor, is lovely. Now you also have to keep in mind that every Fijian outside the towns carries a machete. It’s a way of life, I think they are all given one when weaned from mamas tit, because you can’t get very far without one.
So off we go, Eleanor leading the way. After some time (?)
we come to a place we Eleanor says we can go this away (off the beaten track),
it’s a short cut. Sally and I look at each other with a bit of trepidation, but
agree fine, let’s really go on an adventure. So, Eleanor leading with machete
flailing away, we finally make it to the river below “the waterfall”, which is
still a ways upstream. Now we are in the raging creek working our way towards
“the waterfall”. The only way to go is really in the creek, not alongside it as
the terrain is just to impenetrable. And after many bolder hops and wading
against the current and climbing steep rocky walls we finally come to “the
waterfall”, probably 2 hours from the village and 2 km across the valley,
though time doesn’t seem to figure in a place like this. And a spectacular
waterfall it was. Even more so, the place was so alive with a spirit, that life
was all around, a heaven on earth as it were, not to mention my feet were
holding up just fine. It was also funny that we “experienced trekkers” were
easily out-done by this young Fijian girl, though I of course had bare feet as
an excuse. J In any case, we took
pause to share our lunch with Eleanor and just be and soak it all up. The air
was sweet, the cool mist of the waterfall floating down, the lush green of the
jungle all about, the sky deep blue above. We were happy campers for sure.
On our way back, Eleanor took us a different route, stopping
at several “camps” were the villagers had small plantations for growing their
own food down on the valley floor. She also was pointing out all the plants in
the forest that are edible. They have a very simple life, abundant food all
about, all the necessities to build shelters. They are a people of little
“want” and love them dearly. They are incredibly friendly and a giving lot as
well. Eleanor even wanted us to spend the night and help us get the bus in the
morning so she could show us around more. Now, who do you know that would do
that for total strangers in the hectic world of the west?Once we made it back up to “the road” (the only road), we decide to hitch back to Savusavu instead of waiting for the last bus or stay the night. We looked rather worn and covered in mud, though Eleanor of course didn’t look any different then when we first started. But no worries, the first truck that came along stopped and we say many thanks to Eleanor for taking the time out of her day to show us around. A lovely and kind and giving young woman. So, we slowly make it back across the mountains and back into Savusavu, well almost. We had to walk the last 3 km’s back to the dingy just before dark, get to the boat, take showers, back in the dingy to shore for a very large yummy pizza and spectacular sunset, back to the boat and fell into bed by 8pm from a long wonder-filled day.
So that’s the news from EQ, where the winds are fair, the seas following and the crew content.
J
