From St Vincent, the next stop was Martinique. We anchored in Ste Anne bay, with a few hundred other boats, for several days. Although easy to check in to (computer in a coffee shop) all else was expensive and very developed. However, we rented a car for a day and drove to the volcano, Mt Pelee, to hike a bit up the southern slope. And we stopped at the lovely Botanical Garden just off the picturesque interior road to the north end. But Dominica was beckoning, and there was a date to meet Kim's daughter and boyfriend in Guadeloupe on the horizon, so it was easy to leave Martinique behind.The sail to Dominca was a 66 mile, windy, close reach with average cruising speed 6 plus knots. As we pulled into Roseau, the capital city, we were greeted by the "boat men" eager to take us to a mooring and adopt us during our visit. Accepting Brian's offer (working for Sea Cat) we settled in and were treated to crazy, loud music until 4am. So the next morning we headed off for the customs check in and sim card run, and returned to move EQ over to moorings by the Marine Center overseen by Marcus - the self appointed security guard.
Wasting no time, we set out the next morning with Armstrong for a tour of the Morne Trois Pitons National Park area. We hiked to Middleham Falls where the gorgeous trail to the waterfall felt like fairy land, walked to the peaceful Boeri Lake, swam up the Titou Gorge (deep within the steep walls of the gorge to a waterfall - site of POC 2 filming), and finished with a soak in the hot springs of Wotten Waven. What a fabulous day!
From Roseau we moved north to Prince Rupert Bay and Portsmouth. As we approached the harbor we were startled by the surfacing of two sperm whales just off the starboard side as they swam south. Portsmouth is working hard through an association (PAYS) to welcome yachts and we happily took a mooring to spend a few more days. There we were adopted by "Providence", or Martin, who collected us for a row up the Indian River and a drive around the north end to Calibishie.
Dominica (or Waitukubuli as the natives called her - meaning "tall is her body") was working her magic on Roger, just as she had on Kim two years previously, and it was hard to say goodbye. The people here are exceptionally friendly, willing to stop and chat, and the tourism is low key. We vowed to return someday, and hopefully hike the full 115 miles of the Waitukubuli Trail, which made it possible to let go the mooring and head for Guadeloupe.
Those 40 miles were a motor sail opportunity to charge the batteries and fill the water tank before our guests arrived. We pulled into Marina Bas du Fort in Pointe Pitre, to pick up Corinne and Max who flew in from NYC. With only a 3 day visit, and east winds making the sail to the Saints just a bit too far, we settled on Ilet du Gosier for an anchorage so we could swim and sleep out under the stars. The next day we headed back to the marina, rented a car, and drove to the volcano and rainforest. The visit was short, but sweet!
That's the news from EQ,
With Equanimity and Joy...
