Across the Atlantic, Well Step One Anyway...

So, Roger picked up a cold virus flying back from the states (bloody airplanes) a week before we were meant to shove off. And so we did 2 weeks later thinking the cold was about finished. A day or so out it became apparent it wasn't, even got worse and into the lungs (bronchitis). But there was no turning back and the seas were gentle enough. But he did start an antibiotic regime since it was 2 weeks on and the virus was gone, just a lung infection now.

We decide that we could wait until he was a fully functional unit again, or beat it as fast as we could to Cape Verde before the heavy winds set in according to the forecast. But we had to go the next day. And if he got better and the winds didn't get up too much, we would just turn right and go for it all the way to the Caribbean without stopping. We felt 2-1/2 months in Puerto Mogan was enough, but we could sit in the marina until the forecast was better or sit on the boat making way, at least cutting a week out of our journey across the Atlantic. So, we checked out and made way the next morning.

Bye bye to Puerto Mogan, Gran Canaria

The journey started out with a very pleasant 15 knot beam reach, but slowly the winds back off and we were motoring agian. At least the seas were calm and Roger could get some rest, or try to in between coughing fits.

About day 3 the winds filled in the right amount and we had the spinnaker up for the day and most of the night. About 5am the winds got up a bit too much (20+ knots) and we were on the edge of being over powered so pulled it down, just in time. It was a great sail while it lasted as that sail makes for a very smooth steady ride.

And so the winds continued to build as the forecast said and soon it was blowing 25-30 and seas were getting up, like 2-3 meters, and a bit confused. Our smooth ride turned a bit "sporty" and we had to just hang on. We got the Geny poled out and main prevented so we were wing-on-wing which scooted us along nicely. But in a sloppy sea, we rolled our way along. Try sleeping in a boat that rolls from rail to rail, like an old rickety train ride.

Eventually we found a spot we could set the sails for a broad reach and land us in the Cape Verde islands instead of Brazil. :) Broad reaching is a smoother sail than wing-on-wing (in confused seas), which was welcome as the seas continued to build, 3-4 meters now and the winds occassional hitting 35 knots, apparent (40 knots true). These are near Gale conditions, but at least it was behind us. The autopilot was a trooper, never missed a beat. But we were watching it every mile for the last day, hoping the conditions wouldn't get any worse and keeping the boat moving so we could get in before dark on the 5th day. And sure glad we did as the harbour is a bit of a mess, sunken boats, etc.



After an hour of trying to get the anchor set (lots of foul ground, bags, ropes, etc.), we gave up and headed for the marina. And so they put us in a spot down wind of the dock (by now 10pm) and we were set for the night. A much needed shower, some food and to bed, in flat water, finally!

So, 840 miles later, 5 days and 11 hours (that's 6.4 knots average, including the slow start, which is fairly fast for EQ), salt encrusted, we'll take a rest, finish coughing up yellow goo, and let the weather gods send us a fair wind. There's an enormous high pressure system building (1045) which will boost the trade winds to gale conditions, so we'll wait for that all to settle down before venturing further.

So, that's the news from EQ, where the winds are a bit blustery, the seas still sporty, and the marina a bit rickety  with 30+ knot gusts, but the crew content to rest. And of course we are happy to have flying fish land in the cockpit so we know we are in tropical waters again, not to mention heaps of dolphins joining in the fun. I must also add that Kim has been a real joy to sail with, she's a true sailor to the marrow.

With Equanimity and Joy...

Gran Canaria

This slip in Puerto Mogan would become our home for the next two and a half months. The south end of Gran Canaria is full of resort beaches and towns with this being one of the nicer places. The harbor is filled with a mix of fishing boats, tourist boats and live aboards as well as hosting yachts like us preparing for the Atlantic crossing or spending the winter. The quay is lined with restaurants, shops and apartments, nicely painted and landscaped. On Fridays the local street market fills the roads and walkways with vendors selling mostly "container goods" with a few unique stands with local crafts or foods.

Although we had to rent a car to get to Las Palmas (which we did several times) for a decent chandlery and supermarket, we did manage to find most of the bits and pieces we needed. The rest we ordered or bought during the trips to Rhode Island. Kim went home for 3 weeks of family and friend time, bringing back more supplies like the EPIRB battery, new stereo system and galley gear. Over the ensuing months we (as in mainly Roger) sewed new cockpit cushion covers, sewed a new dodger, replaced the leather on the steering wheel, rebuilt the toilet, rebuilt the water maker pump and lots of other odds and ends. We also had the genoa repaired and rigged a new mini-preventer for the boom.

We did find time to tour Gran Canaria a bit and drove around the north end and then down through the center of the island, finding it to be fascinating in the changing terrain along the way. The passing months and occasional rain had brought the green vegetation to life. Up in the mountains there were wet cloud forests and Canarian pine trees, scary roads and sweet villages in contrast to the dry, rocky coastal resorts. The town of Tejada was charming and the Roque Nueblo majestically rose above it. Gran Canaria is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve and is called "the little miniature continent" for it's diverse topography. The island's altitude and sharp relief allow for a myriad of microclimates and habitats.

The original aboriginal inhabitants of Gran Canaria were farmers and fishermen whose main crop was barley. Although largely oblivious to the various monarchs of Europe who were pushing the boundaries of exploration by sea, they did have to deal with marauders and pirates. They would hide their crops out of sight and reach in inaccessible caves perched on top of immense gulleys and often lived in caves as well. Here we are in the same place that Columbus (and others) stopped before venturing further. Soon we will follow pretty much the exact route that he sailed to the "new world".

But it's not time to set sail yet. We continue to wait for the trade winds to set in firmly and ocean temperature to cool. So we had time for a trip to Rhode Island together to celebrate Thanksgiving with Kim's family. All three daughters, sister and brother-in-law, nieces and nephews plus new grand baby niece - first in the Hunt family. Roger was given a whirlwind tour of the best parts of RI and a glimpse into Kim's early years and recent life. Plus we picked up more parts for EQ...and some familiar treats. Unfortunately we also brought back a nasty respiratory infection that Roger has to fight off before we can get under way. But with the provisioning done and meals in the freezer we are nearly there!

That's the news from EQ, where the winds are calm and seas flat from where we are, hence the crew is content, waiting for a decent weather window to leave (and just 'one' more thing to do) :).

With Equanimity and Joy...