Incredible India - Kochi International Marina

After a full day of check-in procedures we hoisted the anchor and started motoring up the channel to Bogatty Island and the Kochi International Marina. We hadn't been underway more than five minutes when a Port Control boat pulled alongside us and called "papers". Good that we insisted on getting copies from the customs office who had taken all the papers! Then on we went up a narrow channel that was less than feet in places (and close to high tide!) to the marina. This could/should be a great little spot but it is suffering from extreme neglect. The docks are rotting out and it is generally unkempt and not all that clean in the facilities. Too bad because we like it here. The funniest thing was that the marina manager came out to greet us, being young and two months into the new job, was wearing a life jacket. I think that says everything about it. :)

Unfortunately, since we were both sick, we wound up spending the first two weeks in India on the boat, sick. I forged out for a visit to the clinic and to get a SIM card and some basic provisions, but not much beyond. Plans for taking a week's tour of Kerala or flying up to Delhi and visiting the Taj Mahal and surrounds were put on hold and then eliminated. We'll need to fly back to visit the northern areas of India at some point in the future. For this trip, we'll stay close to Kochi and see how it goes.


Since we were on the outside dock, we had a great view of the river and across to Ernakulum, the main city by Kochi. We were surprised at how many tourist boats pass by, especially at sunset, and to find that we were part of the tourist attraction. All the boats had loud and fun Indian music with people cheering, waving, rocking out, or just sitting serenely. We also watched ferries going up and down, and the most enchanting and captivating little round basket boats which the local gypsies use for fishing in the river. We give them water as they paddle by if they need any.

With Equanimity and Joy

The Gulf of Mannar - across to India

We finally made it but it was a long night the other night. We crossed the ‘Gulf of Mannar’ which is the body of water between Sri Lanka and southern India. We had strong winds for good sailing but it was what they call “square seas”, so we were taking water over the side quite regularly, big slaps on the side of the boat and deluges coming aboard at times. So, it was a long night, and thankfully only one night but enough to become salty ole dogs for sure. But EQ was a trooper, she just kept on going, rail in the water and a bone in her teeth. All we had to do is strap in and hold on (we do worship our autopilot!). However, having a cold just before leaving didn’t help, so not our best passage for sure.

But we are here, safe and sound, though a bit salty around the edges, inside and out. We had to heave-too (back-wind the sails to stop the boat) a couple of times so Roger could dive on the prop as it picked up fishing nets and lines. There is heaps of junk in the water around here. Coming up the west coast of India there was also tons of fishing boats everywhere, more than we’ve ever seen. So we spent the second night dodging fishing boats, many with no lights until you were just upon them, they’d shine strong lights in your eyes and blind you... big surprise. 

But we got here just before dark on Thursday and then spent all day on Friday checking into India and Kochi port, more paper work than you can believe, all with carbon copies in triplicate, the old way. They say, and justifiably so, that the process serves the paperwork rather than the paperwork serving the process. It was like stepping back in time to the 1800's when the British ruled India in old colonial buildings and piles of paperwork everywhere. We’ll take some pictures when we check out, it’s too funny!

With Equanimity and Joy
(and a washed and clean boat, showered and rested)

Sensational Sri Lanka - Part V: Kandy

We took the train up to Kandy and booked first-class seats in the "observation" car. I had all sorts of images of a raised dome for 360° viewing, but it was a regular train car attached at the back of the train with one large pane window. So we had a reasonable view of where we had been. :)

Kandy is beautifully nestled by a lake and surrounded by hills. We arranged for a tuk-tuk tour of the surrounds and some temples in the region. We began the day at the Ceylon Tea Museum, which was very informative, with lots of old machinery and archives, plus a lovely cup of tea and informative video at the end. Then off we went to three temples which were very old with lovely carvings and paintings. The first was Embakka which was built in the 14th or early 15th century, with intricate carvings on the posts. The second was Lankatilake and is built on a hillside with stunning views of the area.

The third was Gadaladeniya and was unique in that the main stupa had a roof covering it. Out front was this beautiful Buddha statue.

After we completed our whirlwind temple tour bumping along in our tuk-tuk on the outskirts of Kandy, we came back into town and visited a tea factory which was in operation. We loved seeing the process and the machinery in action.

For a little peace, we stopped at the botanical gardens and enjoyed a stroll through the park. The orchid house was a highlight as were the cheeky monkeys about. Then on to the Kandy dance performance. We had heard that this was not to be missed, but in actuality it was mediocre.

Our final stop was at the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, where a piece of the Buddha's tooth that had been taken from the pyre was housed. You can't actually see the tooth relic itself, but the splendour of the golden casks that hold it are incredible. We had an awesome tour guide who spoke non-stop for the two hours we were with him and we learned so much about Sri Lanka's history. A long day, but very satisfying!






Back at the hotel, which included breakfast and dinner, we enjoyed a nice meal and were delighted to speak with the man who ran their dining room, who is a smiling, gentle soul. He was so kind and walked with us the following day to show us the way down the hill to the lake.

We very much enjoyed out time in Sri Lanka and hope to come back someday. Friendly and happy people everywhere.

With Equanimity and Joy

Sensational Sri Lanka - Part IV: Adams Peak

Adams Peak or Siripadaya Peak or "butterfly mountain" is 2243 meters high and is known for the Sri Pada, or "sacred footprint" rock formation near the top. Buddhist tradition holds this to be the footprint of Buddha, in Hindu it is thought to be of Shiva, and in Christian belief it is where Adam fell to earth when expelled from heaven. Interesting that all have their own take on this important site.

We woke at two in the morning and start walking at 2:30 AM. It's a 1000 m rise in elevation over the 7 km climb. Roger's tummy was a bit off and Sher was starting to get a cold (though it was just a tickle in the throat at that time). Up, up, and up we climbed with others we encountered along the way. Some moved at a brisker pace and others we overtook. The first part was a gentle slope which turned steeper and steeper as we went.



Shadow of Adams Peak to the West

The final section was really tough and we had to hold onto rails and help hoist ourselves up. Along the way were several enterprising tea shops set up for weary climbers in both directions to rest, revive and warm themselves. By 5:30 AM, a half hour or more before sunrise, we made it to the last tea station and waited there with hot, warm, sweet tea (ah... so wonderful!) before braving the last 15 minutes of cold winds to the summit Temple.

Once up at the top, you were waiting with the many others for sunrise. It was chilly and you need to remove your shoes to enter the temple area. You ring the bell at the top for the number of times you have made this climb.

Although the sunrise is the main attraction to the east, the shadow of Adams Peak, a pyramid stretching out to the horizon in the west, is equally impressive. It's really quite magical up above the mists of the valleys on top of the world being in a very sacred temple watching the sun come up and the shadow the mountain makes to the west. On the way down, you really feel like you've been somewhere, touched in the heart with a sense of peace.






And then there is the trip back down... something like 5500 steps. The monks over many, many years have created these steps, one step at a time. One would think it is a lot easier than the climb up and in some ways it is, but it stresses the already-sore muscles and the joints. It took half the time as the upward journey, but by the time we were most of the way down we were beyond ready for breakfast and a shower. Once back to our hotel, we had to make the very steep climb up to our rooms in the cottage blocks waaaaaaay up high in the back. We had breakfast first to rest and almost had to crawl the last few steps to our room for a much desired shower.


With Equanimity and Joy
(with sore muscles for the following week)

Sensational Sri Lanka - Part III: The Hill Country

We left at 7am and made a quick stop at the local temple for our guide, Batu and our driver Sampath, then headed to the Ayurvedic herbal garden and training center. A doctor in trainimg showed us all the medicinal plants, including a cream to remove hair naturally, which he demonstrated on a small patch of Roger's arm hair. We had a lovely cup of herbal tea and then a short head and body massage from two trainees. We then headed along the southern coast and saw the stilt fisherman. Unfortunately, they only fish for tourists these days, so we decided to skip paying for a photo of them and instead just snapped a distant shot as we drove by.

We passed Marissa, the launching point for whale watching expeditions, but we won't likely see any when we sail out, and since we sailied in at night, we'll likely miss the blue whales and sperm whales in this part of the world. We turned north and headed up into the hill country. We drove up to Uda Welawa national park and the Elephant Transit Home, and orphanage for baby elephants. We arrived there at feeding time and it was sweet watching the baby elephants fed milk. There are loads of wild elephants in the park, best seen at dawn and dusk. 

We didn't have enough time to spend a day at the park, but one elie was standing along the road and we were happy to feed her mangos purchased from a vendor conveniently standing right there by the elephant... they must be in cahoots! We drove on and our driver was excellent at finding and pointing out birds and other interesting sights along the way. 

Ella was our final destination for the first night. We had an herbal Ayurvedic massage and then drove to our hotel in the mountain out of town for a surprisingly good meal, gorgeous view, and good nights rest.

The next morning we set out with brekky-to-go for the amazingly beautiful train ride to Nurawele Eliya along the mountain ridges. There was damage due to heavy rains this season and we were lucky as the train only started running again this day, though only the 6:39AM and no observation car. Still, we barely sat, choosing to stand by the open doors and take photos most of the way!

 

The next day we were planning to climb Adam's Peak, leaving at 2AM to arrive at the summit before sunrise. Needless to say we made an early evening of it.

With Equanimity and Joy

Sensational Sri Lanka - Part II: Colombo

We passed through Colombo three separate times, but only really visited once where we stayed in the revitalized Fort area. We took the early train up from Galle, a lovely coastal ride, and enjoyed the trip. We walked around the area and were headed for the lighthouse when we were addressed by a gentleman walking in the same direction.

leaf inspired shape for temple stupas

Despite our past experiences we were once again caught up in a minor tourist scam. Whisked off to an "annual festival at an important temple" in a passing Tuk-Tuk, I should have known it was a scam when our guide asked the driver to stay and wait 10 minutes. Roger said he knew but I was so enthusiastic he didn't want to dampen my spirits. After a nice tour of the temple and, to my delight, a few minutes and photos with their resident temple elephant, we were whisked off to the gem and jewellery shop. We didn't even look or listen to the sales pitch, but headed right back out. When the driver took us back to the lighthouse (original destination) he tried charging us about four times what the trip should have cost and we gave him more than we wanted but much less than he asked. It wasn't an expensive scam and I did enjoy the temple, but I'm going to have to be more careful in the future not to get caught up in these things. The day we visited was the presidential elections and so things were quiet, stores were closed and restaurants were not allowed to serve alcohol. Even the normally bustling market I wanted to visit the following morning was empty when we got there! They was lots of expectations for some possible hostilities, should the current president have won the election, but he didn't and there were no outbreaks or drama of any kind.

Right next to our hotel was a nice little complex with a tea shop, several restaurants and a retail store or two. I believe it was located within the Old Fort Dutch Hospital complex. We met my friend and former colleague and his sister for lunch at the expensive but superb Ministry of Crab restaurant. It was truly a splurge and I enjoyed every morsel of the tasty crabs, shrimp and homemade bread, infused with garlic and pepper.

Sensational Sri Lanka - Part I: Galle Harbor (not so sensational)

EQ stern-tied to floating dock in the back of the harbour 

Sri Lanka was never on our list of top places to travel, but we are so glad to have visited this lovely country. Unfortunately, (and the only part we really didn't like about being there) Galle harbour is really challenging for visiting sailing yachts. That said, it will improve somewhat when they finish construction on the new "marina" next year sometime. It will be much better than being stern-tied to a lego-like plastic dock, but it won't help with the constant coating of grime, diesel and cement dust from this working port.

We spent only two weeks there and would love to have visited more of the island... so much to see and experience.

Close to the harbour, we walked around Fort Galle one steamy afternoon. The lighthouse and colonial buildings were very lovely, but due to the heat we didn't linger there all too long.

We made two trips to Colombo, visited the Hill Country and went to Kandy. We might very well plan another trip back sometime to see the ancient cities, more of the national parks and even head to the north. It would be great to sit a course at the Vipassana centre near Kandy too.

with Equanimity and Joy