The Kumai River and Tanjung Putimg NP was certainly a highlight of Indonesia, but our cruising permit was coming to an end and we still had 650 miles to go to Singapore and only a couple of weeks to get there so that we didn't overstay the permit (with very steep fines), so we set forth, stopping at several islands along the way. We had a couple of over-nighters, but it was all fairly easy, though we did a bunch of motoring as the winds were light. We also crossed the Equator, back into the Northern hemisphere, on 17 October @ 05:12 am (local time). It's been over 9 years since EQ has done that. Hope she doesn't get confused. :) We do miss seeing the Southern cross at night though.
We finally did make it to Nongsa Point, our first (and last) marina in Indonesia to check out of the country and say good bye to a wonder-filled 3 months, the "Magical Mystery Tour" coming to an end, but also the start of another adventure up the Malacca Straits to Singapore, Malaysia & Thailand. And this new adventure started with crossing the shipping lanes in the Singapore Straits, an adventure in itself, literally a 1000 ships toing and froing, our chart plotter getting overwhelmed with AIS targets pasted all over the chart. We stopped at the "Western Quarantine" anchorage to check into Singapore with Immigrations, customs, etc. We never even dropped the anchor, the officials came over to us, we passed our papers via a fishing net, they processed us in and we were on our way. Singapore is very efficient! They'd have to be, being the largest container port on the planet. So, having caught the tides right (for a change) we headed around the back western side of S'pore to Raffles marina, were we will sit for a few weeks, resting, exploring this lovely city (a very big city when you consider where we've been), visiting friends that live here, and of course attending to those boat projects that have been accumulating (the ever present and growing "List").
SO, that's the news from EQ, where the winds are fair (if at all), the seas calm (flat as), and the crew content (and well dressed with new Bali shirts). Ta, ta...
With Equanimity and Joy
Friday, 25 October 2013
Tuesday, 8 October 2013
Kumai River Cruise and Orangutans!
Monday morning
found us waiting for our pick up... and waiting, and waiting. This operation was definitely
working on Indonesian "rubber time". We finally got everyone
collected onto our large river cruise boat... well-used “rustic” would describe
the boat best. Although we had three boats for sleeping (16 of us in our group)
on the 3-day/2-night cruise in the Tanjung Puting National Park, we all traveled and ate together on one boat.
We visited three orangutan feeding stations, one each day of the trip. Many of the orangs are totally wild, but some are semi-wild, having been orphans released back into the forest after rehabilitation. They are still somewhat dependent on the daily feedings. Those feedings also help the tourism, as many of us were there watching and snapping photos. Below are two of the MomOrangs… the babies will hold on and travel with their moms for about the first 4-5 years and then they will start venturing on their own, but still stay close to mom.
On day 2 while
several boats were rafted up and waiting to hike into the feeding station, we
watched a mischievous orang sneak on board the boat next to us and steal a can
of condensed milk from the table. Other cruisers who had done the tour just
before us reported the same event, so I somehow suspect that this was part of
the routine show. The orang knew just what to grab and the boat operators knew
exactly when to look the other way and leave the table unattended! :-) Here is the thief with loot in hand…
On the way to the orang feeding, an Orang walked
along the path with us. Then she reached up and took the arm of one of the
cruisers, who I’m sure was in a state of shock and fright. Then she walked on
and let others on the tour hold her (or she them). Eventually she got smart and
put hands and feet up so that some of the folks were carrying her most of the
way. Now that’s a good example of how intelligent
the Orangs are… they are fed daily and somehow arrange to be carried to the
feeding area as well! Yep, I’m on the left (below) walking with a new friend.
That same day, on the way back from the orang feeding, we had a very close encounter with a male orang. I was walking along the path ahead of Roger and we were both back a bit from the rest of our group. I heard a rustling to my right and stopped to look. There, larger than life, was a big male orang. We looked at each other and then I saw Roger heading right for him. I yelled for him to stop, but he kept on until I repeated it more urgently. He said, "whaaaat?" and when I told him to look to his right, he saw him. He put out his hand, which might have been interpreted as a somewhat aggressive gesture, and the orang made threatening noises and postures, so Roger decided to head back up the path in the direction we came from... the orang followed him. Luckily there was another tour group and the guide told Roger just to move off the path... the orang just wanted to get by him and get to the food. Whew!... what a scare!
On the last day of the tour we saw the big king below left... what an impressive creature he is.
We feel so fortunate to have been able to do this trip and visit with the Orangs (as well as our friends traveling with us!
with Equanimity and Joy (and Orangs)
We visited three orangutan feeding stations, one each day of the trip. Many of the orangs are totally wild, but some are semi-wild, having been orphans released back into the forest after rehabilitation. They are still somewhat dependent on the daily feedings. Those feedings also help the tourism, as many of us were there watching and snapping photos. Below are two of the MomOrangs… the babies will hold on and travel with their moms for about the first 4-5 years and then they will start venturing on their own, but still stay close to mom.
There were times
past when people bought and sold orangs, not caring for them properly, etc.
Thankfully, the Indonesian government has outlawed this and the orangs seem to
be holding their own in the national park. They are still threatened elsewhere,
as rainforest and jungle are being cut down and replaced with palm oil
plantations. I recently learned that it is less the palm oil in foods we eat,
and more as a supplement for fuel... or maybe they can use it as fuel on its
own... not sure about that. But what I am sure about is that only 37% of the
rainforest remains in Borneo and the animals are losing their habitat. This,
along with the pervasive trash problem all over Indonesia, makes me terribly
sad.
That same day, on the way back from the orang feeding, we had a very close encounter with a male orang. I was walking along the path ahead of Roger and we were both back a bit from the rest of our group. I heard a rustling to my right and stopped to look. There, larger than life, was a big male orang. We looked at each other and then I saw Roger heading right for him. I yelled for him to stop, but he kept on until I repeated it more urgently. He said, "whaaaat?" and when I told him to look to his right, he saw him. He put out his hand, which might have been interpreted as a somewhat aggressive gesture, and the orang made threatening noises and postures, so Roger decided to head back up the path in the direction we came from... the orang followed him. Luckily there was another tour group and the guide told Roger just to move off the path... the orang just wanted to get by him and get to the food. Whew!... what a scare!
On the last day of the tour we saw the big king below left... what an impressive creature he is.
We feel so fortunate to have been able to do this trip and visit with the Orangs (as well as our friends traveling with us!
with Equanimity and Joy (and Orangs)
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