Wednesday 6 May 2015

Shalom Israel!

We didn't know whether or not we'd visit Israel until two days before we arrived. We are very glad that we were able to get a berth for a few weeks at the lovely and modern Herzliya (or Herzliyya, or Herzelia, or Herselia, depending on which sign you are looking at) Marina. What a treat to meet with Dan here after promising to visit by sail two years ago.

We rented a car after resting up a bit and took a five-day driving tour of much of Israel. We thought we'd save Jerusalem for a separate trip using public transport since you don't need (and probably don't even want) a car there.

We headed north to Caesarea and explored the ruins. This ancient city and harbor was built by Herod the Great in about 25-13 BC.  There are remains from many periods, including Crusader fortifications, a Roman theater and a hippodrome (for chariot racing and other forms of brutal entertainment... think Christians vs. lions). One of the most impressive parts of ancient Caesarea was its harbor. At the time it was built in the 1st century BC, it ranked as the largest artificial harbor built in the open sea.

We continued to Nazareth, where we spent the night at a hostel just above the old city market and directly on the “Jesus Trail” a 65km path that Jesus (may have) walked. Beautiful stone stairs took us down to the city center and narrow alleys twisting and turning this way and that, ensured we would get lost (even equipped with GPS!), all part of the Nazareth marketplace experience. We found our way to the Basilica, Church of the Annunciation, where Mary received word she would give birth to the son of God. We enjoyed being here and decided on a second night's stay largely due to the hostel's exceptionally yummy brekky. 

We drove out the following day to Tsippori (or Zippori, or...) just 10km away, and was amazed at the beautiful mosaics, especially the famous "Mona Lisa of Galilee".


Then on to Akko (Acre), north of Haifa, where we checked out the small marina and meandered through the open market and old city walls, before continuing up to the very north at the Lebanese border. We turned inland and followed scenic route 899, winding through hills and forests, through Safed, over to the Sea of Galilee and down the western side to Tiberius. Since it was Shabbat, most everything was closed. We just wanted a light dinner and managed to find a small mini-market on our street with a shwarma stand in front. We joined a couple already sitting at the only table and shared travel tips and experiences... good fun.

The following day we drove around the eastern side of the lake, up through the Golan Heights and further north towards the borders of Lebanon and Syria. There is quite a lot of agriculture, and we stopped at a scenic outlook near the Syrian border to have a stretch and a better view. We looked out at a UN facility and in the distance we could see smoke from rebel fighting, though not the IS we were told. 

Further along the way we spied Nimrod's Fortress, sitting high on the hill and decided to explore. It is located on the slopes of Mt. Hermon atop a ridge at an altitude of 815 meters. The fortress is magnificent, though much of it was destroyed in an earthquake in the 8th century. Back to Tiberias for the night and then south for a visit to the new Vipassana center before continuing on to Bet She'an, another ancient city with beautiful Roman baths and a well-preserved theater. The amazing ancient architecture throughout Israel is dazzling and fascinating. 

With Equanimity and Joy,